British Ruth Gorge 2005

Mount Wake (2,755m) and London Bridge (2,250m) are peaks facing one another across the Ruth gorge, and generally offer good scope for mixed routes. However, unseasonably warm and unsettled weather had cleared most of the ice in the area, which necessitated a change of plan. They therefore 'moved into rock climbing mode'. After several failures they climbed 'Ham & Eggs' (900m, V 5.9 W 14) on the Moose's Tooth, continuing to its west summit, and then made a one-day ascent of 'Dream in the Spirit of Mugs' (1,100m, V 5.l0c) on the west pillar of the Eye Tooth. Few other expeditions to the area achieved as much this spring.