British Ruth Gorge

Although the spectacular glacial rift known as Ruth Gorge is well-explored, there are still plenty of opportunities for new routes in the surrounding area. This was proved by this duo who, after warming up on the classic Shaken, not Stirred (V A15) on the south face of Moose’s Tooth, headed for the unclimbed east face of Peak 11,300 (3444m). On this, climbing mostly by night to minimise the risk from an overhanging sérac, they put up Night of the Raging Goose (1500m, V W15) on its central couloir, eventually returning to camp via the south ridge after 25 hours on the go. A week sitting out storms gave them time to recover before heading for the north face of Mt Church (2509m), climbed for the first time by a Japanese team in 2008. Pike & Clapham elected for the central line up the face, resulting in some hairy moments (plus serious bruises when a ‘bus-sized’ cornice collapsed), but eventually achieved a new route, which they named Amazing Grace (V A14).