British/New Zealand Alaska Extravaganza

The main objective of this team was Z Buttress on Mount Hunter (4441m), but on arrival in the area, they learned that a Swiss team had beaten them to it and made the first ascent one week earlier. However, they decided to warm up by climbing Moonflower Buttress, which they achieved in good style, descending by the West Ridge, the round trip taking 3 days. The Swiss team had reported dangerous cornices and ice mushrooms on the north face of Mt Hunter and the weather forecast was not good, so with the aim of maintaining some acclimatisation, they skied up to spend a night at the 11,000 ft (c.3350m) camp on the W buttress of Denali. Back at base with the weather still good, Scott & Fortune made an enjoyable traverse up the SW Ridge and down the E Ridge of Mt Francis (1531m). As the bad weather arrived they assisted in the evacuation of a sick climber on Denali, but after several days of snow, left the mountains altogether, and went rock climbing on the granite tors of the Chena valley. Fortune then went home, but with a few days left and an improvement in the weather, the others returned to the Ruth amphitheatre where they climbed Cobra Pillar on Mt Barille (2331m).