British Mount Kennedy NW Face 2004

Mt Kennedy (4,234m) is a beautiful mountain in the Yukon, with Himalayan sized walls and ridges. Although Jack Tackle and Jack Roberts attempted its 1,800m north-west face in 1995, they had to abort due to a dropped crampon. This team was luckier - in fact slick organisation and unexpectedly good weather saw them achieve their objective within a week of leaving the UK. Starting on the same line ('A Pair of Jacks', graded Alaskan 6, M6 & A15+), their route finished straight up on new ground (up to hard Scottish grade VII) through the upper rock band. Descent was made onto the lower Cathedral glacier at 1,900m on the south side of the mountain, from where they were picked up and flown back to Kluane.