Alaska Take Two 2003

Before attempting their prime objective of a new route on the west face of Mount Hunter (4,442m) this NZ team planned to 'warm up' (strange terminology for Alaska) by making the first ascent of the north face of Pk 11,520 (3,511m) from the Tokositna Glacier. In this they were successful, making the first ascent of the obvious 900m couloir which rises from the valley floor to the summit cornice: descent was back down the couloir using v-threads and rock gear in a snowstorm. Most of the route consisted of 50°-60° ice but three steeper ramps gave 75°-85° climbing. Broken into 20 pitches, they graded the route at Alaskan 3+, AI 4-/4+. Moving first to the Kahiltna Glacier and then to Ruth Glacier, they repeated several existing routes, but after several days camping at the bottom of the west face of Mount Hunter in heavy snow, they withdrew because of avalanche danger.